Sunday, June 8, 2008

toupees and muffin tops

ometepe was fantastic. we left pretty early in the morning and got there around 9, arriving just in time for breakfast (and an ice cold beer). we were able to all pitch in for a taxi and avoid the ridiculously long bus ride to the other side of the island. because the volcano trek starts earlier in the morning than we expected, we all ended up heading to the same spot instead of splitting up. it took about an hour and a half to get to the hostel in Merida because the roads were so bad. ive never really seen main roads this shitty before. my feet actually hurt after walking quite a ways with Pedro in the afternoon because my shoes are so thin and the roads are so rocky and uneven.
anyway, we all hung out at the hostel for a bit, went swimming in the lake, and ate some food. they actually had soy vegetarian options, which was really exciting. i felt like i had found my way to a remote, nearly unreachable oasis.

after a while pedro and i decided to make the trek to the waterfall at san ramon. it took about half an hour to walk down the road to the biodiversity preserve, then another hour and a half to begin the hike up the volcano to get to the water. the first couple kilometers were not much more than i was expecting, but the last was phenomenal. its was just a tiny little footpath through the rainforest.

distant forlorn screams of howler monkeys and the songs of exotic birds created a constant, melodious rhythm that helped us keep pace as we trudged along. walking through countless spiderwebs that enlaced the path, we were accompanied by a myriad of some of the most interesting insects ive ever seen. enormous termite nests clung tight to the trees high above the heads of the thousands, if not millions, of ants that carried leafs single file in a line that must have reached nearly two hundred yards. we felt like explorers. adventurous, sweaty explorers.we had some trouble finding the waterfall. at points we thought we may have missed it. or gone too far. or lost the path. but we marched on until we could go no farther. and we found it. it was alright. i mean, sure it was beautiful; tall, smooth, elegant, mystic. but, as you may know, i have lived quite close to some fantastic waterfalls nearly my entire life and it just didnt compare. at the very least, it was worth it just to have the opportunity to hike through the jungle.
it was nearly darkwhen we finally got back and the entire hostel property and surrounding hospedajes had all lost power. luckily we were able to refresh in the warm waters of the gigantic lake and eat dinner prepared by candlelight. throughout dinner we were entertained (and entertained) a couple of local young boys. they had initially stopped by to try to sell their handmade bracelets but soon gave up and just sat down with us. we helped them with their english homework and then took turns showing off what magic tricks, jokes, etc. that we new.

after being eaten alive throughout the night, i awoke eagerly with the raucus crowing of the nearby roosters before my alarm went off and walked immediately to the docks. unfortunately it was still overcast, but the warm, choppy water of the lake was invigorating and abandoned. i ate breakfast from the hostel buffet, filling my belly with enough rice, beans, eggs, fruit, bread, and coffee for a few. afterwards pedro and i packed up our stuff and waited around for the bus to the other side of the island. i was planning on hiking the volcano Madera that day but changed my mind after i found out that i wouldnt be able to descend the other side and end up at Finca Magdalena, the place which drew me to the island in the first place.

after hearing the honking horn of the bus, we grabbed our bags and headed out to the road, surprised that a Nicaraguan bus could have actually arrived 15 minutes earlier than scheduled. and quite early indeed, as it had already come and gone by the time we got there. we ran after it for a few minutes but soon gave up and just decided to walk the long, rocky road to the other side of the island. we met a local on the way and our conversation made the two hours pass a little more quickly.

arriving tired, sweaty, and smelly, the natural beauty of the Finca Magdalena immediately extinguished any negative thoughts that may have been crossing through my mind. the old, enormous farm and barn turned hostel was nearly empty and ours for exploration. it was literally a huge old barn that they had converted into a hostel; the beds were just cots suspended a few feet off the ground; hammocks abound on the wide-open porch; fresh, cheap food and beer served from the old stables. we had some food, spoke for a while with a couple french ladies that are traveling the world together, and then headed our separate ways: pedro to the porch to read and i went off exploring. the gardens were filled with tons of beautiful, colorful plants that id never seen before.
and the permaculture institute was just through the woods and down the hill. i started off trudging through the mud in the direction that someone had pointed out, but soon encountered another gringo hiking the opposite direction, squeezing himself through a barbed wire fence and greeting me with a friendly, 'howdy.' i was really quite lucky to bump into chris, the director of the Project Bona Fide, the permaculture institute, as i would have honestly never have found it on my own.

it started to pour just as we were arriving back at the kitchen/classroom where a group of students from UVM as well as a few regulars were finishing up work for the day and making some food. i was introduced and quickly welcomed into the small community, making myself at home underneath the straw roof that was doing such a great job of keep us all warm and dry. i was invited to eat with them and got to share their bread and fruit with fresh jam and chocolate, which they had just made from cacao grown there on the farm. it was amazing.after the rain stopped and i had gotten a chance to speak to nearly everyone, a few of the girls were nice enough to give me a tour of Zone 1 of the farm. it was beautiful. there were so many different species of plants grouped so densely together, all placed strategically in certain places in order to most effectively and efficiently benefit and cooperate with their neighbors.

pedro and i hung out with a few of the girls from the farm after they walked back with me to the farm, then had an early dinner and passed out. we were pretty limited in terms of buses in the morning because most of ometepe shuts down on sundays. so we woke up at 4 this morning and walked down the long, dark, rocky slope to the town of Balgue to catch the 4:45 bus back to the other side of the island.

although i was bumbed about not getting the chance to hike one of the two gorgeous volanoes, i had an amazing time and had the chance to see some of the most beautiful things ive seen here, if not in my life. while im sure the view from the top of the volcano would have been fantastic, i was happy enough looking at it from afar. these pictures dont do it justice, but the cloud formations that almost always surround the top of Concepción are one of the most beautiful things ive ever seen. they're so incredibly smooth. it looks as if the ancient volcano is wearing a slick, puffy little toupee. or perhaps a grand, icing-covered muffin top. its fantastic.

well, i think thats all folks. i doubt that ill be posting again this trip as ill be heading home friday. thanks for reading and keeping in touch. love and peace to all you wonderful people. until next time...

Monday, June 2, 2008

good vibes, hard rain

hello beautiful people. sorry i havent posted anything in a while, ive been trying to keep myself busy with other things and away from the computer.

in between community visits, workshops, and torrential downpours, ive been able to fit in a couple of trips to help me keep my sanity. last weekend we were able to borrow a friend's truck and drive down to the pacific coast at San Juan del Sur. there were 6 of us but only room for 3 in the cab so Bidkart, Pedro, and I got to ride in the back for a couple hours...
it was really great until it started pouring...by the time we got there the rain had stopped and the sun came out. its a pretty beautiful beach and it was nice to see some unpolluted water and wildlife for a while. we stayed there most of the day, explored the rocks on one side (which were so beautiful that i realized afterwards that i took way too many pictures of rocks...), and left just in time to catch another storm the whole way home.
we weren't able to make much progress last week because our workshops and community visits were repeatedly canceled as a result of the awful weather and some communication issues...anyway, we were able to spend more time planning our workshops for this past sunday and this upcoming week. we had a workshop yesterday at Paz y Vida and worked a little more on community building, cooperation, teamwork, and communication. it was also a celebration for mother's day, so it was pretty nice. we had a fairly good turn out, there was a bunch of food, and people seemed to enjoy our activities and had a good time. while im starting to get used to it, i dont think i could really ever adjust to the nicaraguan time schedule, especially after being raised in the united states. although the event was supposed to start at 9, alli and i didnt show up until about 9:20 and i was worried we might have kept some people waiting...but it wasnt until around noon when all the people had arrived and we could actually start. its quite frustrating. everything just moves really slow here. almost unbearably so. on the bright side, its helped me to just chill out and learn to be more patient. i guess i really dont have any other choice..

this past saturday we went on another little trip to La Laguna de Apoyo, which is a beautiful lake only about 25 minutes from where i live. its surrounded by volcanoes on one side and mountains on the other and really reminded me of home. the water was beautiful and really really warm. we rented some kayaks and just explored and hung out for nearly the entire day. it was great to swim and enjoy the natural beauty of the surrounding rain forest.

today, after i get back from lunch, we have a workshop with La Solidaridad on health, hygiene, and sanitation. although its not really what i was expecting to work on, its definitely needed and i think they'll hopefully get something out of it. we're doing the same workshop tomorrow in El Fortin and then planning for a workshop on gender and stereotypes. we have one of those later this week and then have a couple days off. we're planning on taking a trip to the island of Ometepe, which is in the middle of beautiful lake nicaragua. the island consists of two large volcanoes, one active and one inactive. because of the higher altitude and warmer climate most of the island is covered by rainforest.

although i dont know if ill have time, i hope to be able to make it to the permaculture institute thats on the southern part of the island. i was hoping to do a joint project with them and one of my communities, but as a result of time constraints and the snail-like pace that we're moving down here, i doubt it would have ever worked. but i at least want to try to speak with the directors of the institute, who are both americans, about their project and their success teaching permaculture concepts to the local people of nicaragua, as well as any other recommendations or insights they may be able to give.

i probably won't have time to post at any other point this week. ill try to write once more and perhaps post pictures of ometepe sometime next week. ill be pretty busy next week, squeezing in my last workshops and trying to plan one of my own. im supposed to do my own workshop and make a brochure or something that may be of use once i leave, but at this point am having difficulties researching and finding relevant information. a ver.

peace and good vibes to all. keep in touch. love.

La Solidaridad

here are some shots of the community La Solidaridad that i promised...
















...what once was a beautiful beach on lake nicaragua is now covered with trash for as far as you can see